When Ruby Tandoh first embarked on the project that would become her new book, All Consuming, she envisioned it with the broadest scope possible: an authoritative tome about “the whole of appetite — physiological, evolutionary, social, you name it,” she says. “I think this came from a really naive desire at the time to create something that would be beyond the trend cycle.” The problem, though, was that she hated it. “There came a point where I had to ask: What am I eating? What am I facing when I open my phone? What food am I seeing?” Tandoh says.…